A marine-derived facial serum incorporating Caulerpa racemosa extract: formulation, stability, and moisturizing efficacy Pengembangan, efikasi, stabilitas, dan keamanan serum wajah ekstrak etanol anggur laut (<i>Caulerpa racemosa</i>)
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antioxidant, marine cosmeceutical, moisturizing efficacy, phytochemistry, sea grape
Abstract
Marine-derived cosmeceuticals are increasingly being studied as sources of bioactive compounds with antioxidant potential and good safety profiles for topical application. This study aimed to develop a marine serum containing 96% ethanolic C. rasemosa extract and evaluate its quality, efficacy, stability, and safety. C. rasemosa was macerated with 96% ethanol and analyzed for extract quality standards, phytochemicals, and heavy metals (Pb, Hg, As, and Cd) using atomic absorption spectrophotometry (AAS). Antioxidant activity was measured using the DPPH method. Three extract-containing formulas (5%, 7.5%, and 10% extract) and a base formula (0% extract) were assessed for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, spreadability, cycling-test stability, open patch safety in 30 volunteers, and 28-day skin hydration response, with signs of irritation (erythema, papules, vesicles, and edema). The moisturizing effectiveness was determined by changes in skin hydration. The C. rasemosa extract met the quality standards and contained flavonoids, saponins, terpenoids, and steroids. Heavy metals (Pb, Hg, As, and Cd) were not detected or were below the stated limits. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with a DPPH value of 84.94 ± 0.42 ppm. All serum formulations met the quality requirements, and cycling tests confirmed the stability of all formulas. Cycling tests confirmed acceptable preliminary physical stability, especially in the 10% formulation, and patch tests showed no visible irritation. The 10% formulation achieved the highest hydration recovery after 28 days (60.82%) because its 10% extract supplied more flavonoids, saponins, terpenoids, and steroids, supporting antioxidant barrier protection, hydration, emollient effects, and safe topical serum performance.
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